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Blog Aginor's Painting Blog

Discussion in 'Painting and Converting' started by Aginor, Feb 25, 2017.

  1. Aginor
    Skar-Veteran

    Aginor Well-Known Member

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    I don't have epoxy putty in my house right now so I just used some air drying polymer clay. Curious how it will look tomorrow when it is cured.

    I also haven't tested two part molds yet. Maybe tomorrow.

    But I did try and make a mold of a painted spare Saurus shield (not pictured) to try if it damages the paint job. It didn't as far as I could tell.

    20171018_191818.jpg 20171018_191824.jpg 20171018_191835.jpg 20171018_191851.jpg
     
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  2. Seraphage
    Salamander

    Seraphage Well-Known Member

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    Can't wait to hear the results ! Would be really useful for some special old blood heads for leaders !
     
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  3. Aginor
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    Aginor Well-Known Member

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    I personally would like to make me some cheap Razordons but I fear the spikes make it impossible. I would need a very liquid resin to fill the shape I guess.

    But especially for terrain it could be very cool. Making myself decorations.
     
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  4. Seraphage
    Salamander

    Seraphage Well-Known Member

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    Oh and also I would like your opinion after you complete some of your tests :
    I am thinking of making an Iron Hands army at some point. Not really into 40k. spear and axe will always be the thing for me. Not tanks but still, Iron Hands is a project that I might consider.
    It is also an expensive one as hell. So for example, I hope that I can make the "hand" symbol for the shoulders via this way. Looking forward to your opinion !
     
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  5. Aginor
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    Aginor Well-Known Member

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    Hard to tell... might work if you find a good part to copy. Because sculpting a hand is damn hard.
     
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  6. Seraphage
    Salamander

    Seraphage Well-Known Member

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    Oh no no I m bad at that. I intend to buy the blister once - for a unit of 10 for example and multiply it :p That's why I wanna see how it worked for ya !
     
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  7. Aginor
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    Aginor Well-Known Member

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    Here are my results!
    I'd say there is no reason for GW to panic yet, but keep in mind this was only my first simple test using oyumaru and air drying clay.

    It was super simple. And rather quick. No bad smell you can do it easily in your living room. No waste or anything either.

    I will do more tests soon. I'd say it is perfect for terrain already but I think I can improve quality a bit by using other material and or practising a bit.

    The minimum size of structures that you can reproduce is probably worse than what is possible with plastic as GW does it, but comparable to finecast resin models, at least if you use something like milliput.
    But even with air drying clay you can probably still improve it. I saw a video lately that explained you can mix PVA and air drying clay to make it smoother to use it like epoxy putty while still being non toxic and way cheaper.
    Will try that as well.

    20171019_184344.jpg 20171019_184551.jpg 20171019_184636.jpg
     
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  8. Aginor
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    Aginor Well-Known Member

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    Cleaned them up a bit. Not too well I admit because actually I don't have use for it. Still looks kinda good for the first test I guess. 20171019_191103.jpg
     
  9. Flako
    Skink

    Flako Member

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    Looks nice. I seen your post in the afternoon and I went to buy some Oyumaru haha
    Tomorrow I'll try with millyput
     
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  10. Seraphage
    Salamander

    Seraphage Well-Known Member

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    Thank @Aginor, my Iron Hands army might actually happen at some point judging by the test results :cool:
     
  11. Aginor
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    Aginor Well-Known Member

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    Went ahead and painted that one like a weathered grey stone.

    20171019_192836.jpg
     
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  12. Aginor
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    Aginor Well-Known Member

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  13. Crowsfoot
    Slann

    Crowsfoot Guardian of Paints Staff Member

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    I'm defo getting some now, I can see it being used alot for 40k items.
     
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  14. Warden
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    Warden Well-Known Member

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    Agreed, the casting quality is really good. I am curious to see how reusable it is?

    It certainly looks good enough for small or even larger parts, especially when the individual cast pieces will be lost in the group/regiment/horde of other models surrounding them. Or of course as extra bling on other models!
     
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  15. Slannta's Little Helper
    Cold One

    Slannta's Little Helper Active Member

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    I'm going to be re making a mould I made with it tomorrow so I'll let you know if anything changes on its second use but I'm assuming it will be very reusable :)
     
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  16. Slannta's Little Helper
    Cold One

    Slannta's Little Helper Active Member

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    Update - I've chucked the stuff back into hot water several times over and it's pretty much the same every time - I will say you're looking for it to be stringy when you try pull - that should give you a good indication of when it's ready - also if it starts sticking to your pot don't worry because you can reclaim it later when you push more of the stuff back into itself :). So I'd recommend allocating yourself a specific pot to use or you may loose bits here and there along the way. Finally I will say you have a limited time from when you boil the water to how easy the stuff will absorb the heat, I made a mistake and wanted to re-do the blue stuff but the water had cooled a little (this will vary with ur volume of water etc so you may find yourself that you can chuck it back in for a do over if necessary)
     
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  17. Aginor
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    Aginor Well-Known Member

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    Exactly my observations.
     
  18. Slannta's Little Helper
    Cold One

    Slannta's Little Helper Active Member

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    While we are on the subject I thought I'd experiment with the stuff since the video I watched and I think everyone watched about the stuff the guy says it didn't stick to glass plastics etc - so I tried using a two part epoxy resin from pound land on it - the cheap stuff people use for water effects - the good news is it dries really quickly and doesn't stick to the blue stuff. Might be a usefull way of making water features like spouting water from a pond etc. I'd pre mix it fast somewhere though I didn't mix it well enough and the bits that remain one part of the epoxy are still sticky - I haven't tried In a mould I should add just on a flat piece of the bluestuff after it had been heated and flattened.
     
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  19. Aginor
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    Aginor Well-Known Member

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  20. Crowsfoot
    Slann

    Crowsfoot Guardian of Paints Staff Member

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