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Help Corax White partially immune to stripping?

Discussion in 'Painting and Converting' started by bOdziO Wolf, Aug 12, 2019.

  1. bOdziO Wolf
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    bOdziO Wolf Well-Known Member

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    Hello everyone, unfortunately due to my lack of understanding of how sprayed primers were to be applied I applied far too thick coat of it on the model. I wanted to test some colors on it, so I kept the model as is for some time. Recently I decided to strip it with IPA clean solution which worked on 90% of the paint (with some toothbrush scrubbing included). There are, however, parts of the model where a very thin coat of Corax White is still there and cannot go even after 3th and 4th scrubbing session.

    Is it OK to leave that thin coat and simply spray the remaining parts of the model or should I also make sure to spray-paint the already thin coated areas as well?

    508828af-7af6-41e9-a6bd-f5cde98fb884.jpg
     
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  2. Vedras
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    Vedras Active Member

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    This is really quirky @bOdziO Wolf . I had some Daughters of Khaine I was experimenting on a while ago, using GW white spray (can't recall name) to prime them. With the only real difference being I used a brown dettol dip for stripping, everything lifted off no problem.

    How long was the IPA solution left to soak in?
     
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  3. bOdziO Wolf
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    bOdziO Wolf Well-Known Member

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    GW white spray is actually the Corax White primer.
    Each time I gave it a full night.

    Funnily enough for the first time I was able to strip most of the paint, for the second time most of the remaining paint got off as well. Then third and fourth time yielded no visible results, BUT I also reused IPA from session 2 (this shouldn't make any difference though).
     
  4. Vedras
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    Vedras Active Member

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    I wish I could be of more help but it doesn't make any sense why it is so stubbornly taken to the model :(

    Taking a closer look at the picture, you would almost be forgiven for thinking that white paint was oil-based, given the sheen on it.
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2019
  5. bOdziO Wolf
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    bOdziO Wolf Well-Known Member

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    I assume this is because of the amount I accidentally put on the model. Its weird indeed that I was able to trip part of the model with ease and other parts look like they are literally immune to the detergent.
     
  6. pendrake
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    pendrake Well-Known Member

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    To find out whether this paint is oil based or not read the label on the rattle can. If words like xylene, or toluene, or anything ending with “...ene” is listed as a solvent/propellant it is oil based. (Most paints from rattle cans are oil based.)
     
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  7. pendrake
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    pendrake Well-Known Member

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    I could not find an online image of the fine print label of the Corax White Rattle can. However, the front of the can is labeled both:

    VAPOR HARMFUL

    EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE

    Only an oil/petroleum based product has those warnings.

    Good luck removing it @bOdziO Wolf
     
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  8. bOdziO Wolf
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    bOdziO Wolf Well-Known Member

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    I wish Citadel put actual ingredients like everyone in the chemical industry does...

    My question was actually about coating it again in the current state, since I already stopped any effort of further scrubbing it off. Correct me if I'm wrong, but if I simply put another layer (this time even thinner than you have to put usually) the next layer won't chip off?
     
  9. pendrake
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    pendrake Well-Known Member

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    The second coating should adhere to the first one just fine. Just use good technique.

    12 inches away from target. Or:
    30 centimeters away from target.

    Sweep across the target. (Spray the backstop, slide sideways across the mini moving continuously, stop once past the mini.) Never get closer than 29 cm or further than 31 cm.
     
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  10. Vedras
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    Vedras Active Member

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    Yep I'd also second pendrake's advice above. As it stands there are no details being blocked by the current coat and it looks pretty fine/smooth as is.

    Definitely give a fresh coat a go.
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2019
  11. bOdziO Wolf
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    bOdziO Wolf Well-Known Member

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    Yay! Indeed, sweeping movements and a correct distance was why my second model was perfect :D
     
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  12. Val Muna
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    Val Muna Active Member

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    one more note on white paints: The pigment in white paint is many orders of magnitude larger than that of say black. When you strip a paint, you dissolve/weaken the binder - the bit that holds onto the pigments and dries them to the model. Most pigments, white's ti-dioxide notably, are not soluble. It looks less relevant ere, but this means that despite stripping with <insert your favorite stripper here>, pigments may actually remain clogged in the models features.

    On a related note, i used LA's Totally Awesome undiluted and it dissolved an old GW rattle-can of Dark Angels Green (i do mean old), but it appears to have had no effect on a similar black paint (Chaos Black spray?) that was on an ebay purchase.

    See this video for one of the best comparisons of (paint) strippers i have ever seen:



    Wherein you find that LA's and one other have no problem stripping oil-based paints. So what was the unstrippable black paint??
     
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  13. bOdziO Wolf
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    bOdziO Wolf Well-Known Member

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    MVP screenshot below:

    PaintStripResults.png

    now off to find Polish equivalent of Super Clean or LA's Totally Awesome
     
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  14. The Red Devil
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    The Red Devil Defender of Hexoatl Staff Member

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    If anyone living in Europe knows where to get any of those, let me know. I guess both are limited to US.
     
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  15. pendrake
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    pendrake Well-Known Member

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    Amazon ?
     
  16. The Red Devil
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    The Red Devil Defender of Hexoatl Staff Member

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    The sellers won't ship to my country.

    I can use my freight forward account in US, but since the sellers wont ship it, I assume it has to do with the chemical combination making it illegal to ship by plane.
     
  17. 7437
    Jungle Swarm

    7437 New Member

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    A bit late to respond, but Super Clean is automotive engine degreaser. Any auto parts store should have an equivalent
     
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